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Water. It possesses an undeniable fascination and
attraction, especially when its calm surface stretches invitingly toward
the horizon and the fishing’s good. On a cool morning when fog shrouds
a river, it takes on a mystical, magical quality that envelopes anyone
nearby. Residents of Camden recognized the allure of their slice of
paradise along the banks of the Tennessee River long ago, dubbing it the
Magic Valley. But they're not selfish; they want you to come and
experience the magic for yourself.
Perhaps nowhere is the majesty of the river, dammed to form Kentucky
Lake, more visible than from the tip of Pilot Knob, at 665 feet the
highest elevation in West Tennessee. Pilot Knob, located in Nathan
Bedford Forrest State Park in the tiny village of Eva a few miles east
of Camden, served as a landmark for river navigation in the early 1800s.
From the deck here, visitors can take in an expansive view of Kentucky
Lake.
Located adjacent to the deck is a monument to Nathan Bedford Forrest,
the Confederate Cavalry officer who added to his legend during the
Battle of Johnsonville when he led his men in the attack and destruction
of a Union supply and munitions depot nearby. It was the first time in
military history that a cavalry force had defeated a naval force. The
battle was so successful for the Confederates that several Union boats,
including the gunboat Undine, now sit below layers of silt at the bottom
of the lake. A local nonprofit group, Raise the Gunboats, Inc. www.gunboats.com
is currently working with the state to recover artifacts from the sunken
ships and barges.
Forrest attacked Johnsonville in 1864
November 4, 1864, over 141 years ago, troops under the command of General
Nathan Bedford Forrest attacked and destroyed a massive Union supply depot
at Johnsonville. This depot served as a major supply point for General
Sherman's Army. During the battle, Forrest's cavalry also engaged and
destroyed a fleet of union gunboats. This marked the only time in recorded
history that land based forces defeated naval forces. Also destroyed during
the battle were 17 barges, 14 transports and over 30 pieces of artillery.
During the battle of the gunboats, the Undine #55 was captured by Forrest
and his men and was used for a short time before being breached and burned
by the Confederate Army. The Key West #32, the Elfin #52 and the Tawah #29
were gunboats that were also destroyed by the Confederate forces. They were
a part of the U.S. Navy's Mississippi Squadron.
The Nathan Bedford Forrest State Park was named for the intrepid Confederate
cavalry leader, General Nathan Bedford Forrest, who attacked and destroyed
the federal supply and munitions depot at Old Johnsonville at the mouth of
Trace Creek. His operations were concentrated along the river in the area of
the park and the town of Eva. The park was dedicated to Forrest in 1929 on
land acquired in part from Benton County.
On November 26th, from 6 to 8 p.m. there will be a Lighting of Pilot
Knob/Open House where music will be provided by Doris Harris and Pat Baloga,
playing the harp, dulcimer and psaltery. There will be refreshments
available, but visitors are encouraged to bring of dish of their choice,
preferably a finger food.
Pilot Knob will be officially lit at 6 p.m. on Saturday and will remain lit
until after the Christmas holiday. There is a spectacular view from the Knob
with the festive lights reflecting off the water. There is no charge for
this event and everyone is invited to join. **
Pilot Knob also is home to the Tennessee River Folk-Life Center,
dedicated to showcasing how the Tennessee River has shaped the
development of the area and its residents’ lives. Exhibits explore
traditional ways of life, musseling and the boom of the pearl button
industry, religion, music, arts and crafts, steamboats, showboats and
log rafting. Many of these aspects of river life are highlighted during
the annual Tennessee River Folk-Life and Music Festival each September.
Demonstrators delight visitors with lace tatting, woodcarving, basket
weaving, quilting, soap-making, blacksmithing and other traditional
crafts.
In addition to the folk-life center, the state park offers opportunities
for picnicking, hiking on about 10 miles of meandering trails,
recreational activities such as horseshoes and volleyball, managed
hunts, fishing and boating, and ranger/naturalist programs in the summer
months or by special request during the rest of the year.
While the park has no hotel, there is a group lodge and cabins, open
from March 1 to Dec. 15, which can accommodate up to 64 people. A
sanctuary for people and wildlife alike, this lovely area is located on
the western bank of Kentucky Lake and features seven cabins opened in
May of 2001, Happy Hollow camping area with 38 sites and a primitive
camping area with 15 available sites. In addition, the park offers a
group lodge, fishing, boating and skiing, two picnicking areas, and
pavilions for group use. Trails perfect for hiking wind through the
park, providing excellent views of wildlife, water and woods. Trail maps
are available at the park office.
If the pursuit of that granddaddy of all fish is your idea of a great
time, a visit to the area is a must. Fishing for crappie, bluegill,
bass, sauger and catfish are excellent and draws anglers from near and
far.
Whether you enjoy fishing, boating or other types of lake recreation,
the area is dotted with several marinas to serve your needs. Among the
biggest and most recognizable is the Birdsong Resort and Marina, a
58-acre recreational complex.
Birdsong also has gained far-reaching recognition for its Pearl of a
Tour, a guided pontoon tour to America's only freshwater pearl farm.
Operating from May through October each year, the tour takes from three
to seven hours and requires at least 15 participants and
reservations. Highlights include seeing a diver surface with mussel
shells, which are the heart of the freshwater pearl industry; a visit to
the Tennessee River Folk-Life Center at Nathan Bedford Forrest State
Park; a barbecue chicken picnic overlooking the lake and the opportunity
to browse the small museum and pearl jewelry store at the resort’s
office. Tour costs begin at $19 per person.
Camden boasts several specialty stores where visitors can lose track of
the hours. Everything from discounted wallpaper to women’s apparel to
unique gifts fill the shelves of businesses throughout the town of about
3,600. Even out of view of the river a few miles to the east, the
importance of water to this county seat is evident, especially at
Nautical Treasures, a specialty shop owned by Debra and George Arnold.
Whether you want to decorate a room with a lighthouse theme or fill an
entire home with mementoes of the sea, Nautical Treasures is a great
place to start. Debra also does interior design for boats, a business
that’s booming in an area filled with large pleasure crafts.
Not all the points of interest in Camden revolve around water, however.
In a wooded area three miles northwest of Camden stands a monument to a
somber episode in Camden’s history. On this site on March 5, 1963, a
small Piper Comanche 250 plane crashed into the woods, claiming the
lives of Grand Ole Opry stars Cowboy Copas, Hawkshaw Hawkins and Patsy
Cline and pilot Randy Hughes, who also was Cline’s manager. In
addition to the monument, several displays showcase the lives of the
Opry stars, especially Cline, and newspaper clippings regarding the
fatal crash.
Every community has restaurants that are popular with locals and
visitors alike. It’s not a surprise that catfish is a local specialty
at restaurants such as the appropriately named The Catfish Place. There’s
delectable steaks and desserts at the 1850s Log House Restaurant and a
menu full of choices at Country and Western. If you’re driving with
your window down, you can also figure out pretty quickly that you are
indeed in West Tennessee. The distinctive smell of barbecue on the pit
is enough to make you pull off the road even if you aren’t hungry.
Several spots in and surrounding Camden offer mouthwatering barbecue,
including the award-winning offerings at Hilltop Barbecue. For those fortunate enough to be able to stay more than a day, Camden
has several motels and the area is filled with lakeside cabins, resorts
and campgrounds.
The reigning Queen of Country Music, Loretta Lynn, opened her very
own Coal Miner's Daughter Museum on Saturday, May 26, 2001 at Loretta's
Ranch in the town of Hurricane Mills, Tennessee, just thirty minutes
east.
This unique 18,000 square foot complex
features a main lobby, a memorabilia annex and the Mooney Lynn Pavilion
all under one roof. The museum is filled with Loretta's personal
collection of items from her illustrious life and career over the past
40 years.
The Museum features room displays
depicting Loretta's school in Butcher Holler, KY and her first Nashville
home. The Mooney Lynn Pavilion - like Elvis's Graceland Car Museum -
features Loretta's tour bus and Mooney's Jeep (both of which were used
in her hit movie) and the gold Mercedes Mooney bought for Loretta for
her anniversary.
The main memorabilia annex has a
mini-theatre with an 80" screen and seating. A special display
holds the many awards she has won as well as a wax figure with the
original Coal Miner's Daughter dress. The Lady Loretta Boutique has
clothing and collectibles on sale for her fans.
Loretta's dream for years has been to
open this new Museum, as her original Museum located in the old Grist
Mill at her Ranch was too small and only held a fraction of her
artifacts. This new complex has the space to hold all of her collections
and provides room for her recording and publication archives. Her dream
is to preserve her story and her example of determination for future
generations.
Also on the site is Loretta Lynn's Family Campground, Ranch, Westerntown,
and Farm is found in the heart of Humphrey's County—nestled among the
rolling hills of Middle Tennessee.
Loretta's Family Campground is centered on the old Anderson Farm at
Hurricane Mills, which she and Mooney purchased in 1966. This
picturesque farm has been the commercial center for the thriving
crossroads community of Hurricane Mills since before the Civil War.
Within sight of the grand antebellum farmhouse, the property once
featured a general store with a post office, blacksmith shop, stave
mill, woolen mill, flour mill, county school, an iron truss bridge over
Hurricane Creek, and a Church of Christ Meetinghouse with an upstairs
Masonic Lodge. In the early twentieth century, the Anderson Farm
was perhaps the most progressive farm in the county. Today with
many of the original buildings intact, it forms the focal point of
Loretta Lynn's Westerntown.
Operated by Loretta and her family, come see Loretta perform in one
of her many concert dates in the open-air Pavilion. Tour the
former home of "The Living Legend," and take a glimpse into
the life of country music's most awarded female vocalist. View
Mooney's legendary "Golden Eagle" Jeep as seen in the movie
"Coal Miner's Daughter," along with other memorabilia
throughout their home. While you're there, browse through
Westerntown and visit Loretta's personal Museum in the old Flour Mill.
Relax at the swimming pool. Cast your fishing line or canoe in
Hurricane Creek. Go hiking throughout Loretta's sprawling ranch.
Enjoy scheduled campfire shows with musical performances. You can
camp out under the stars, stay overnight in our cozy log cabins, or park
your recreational vehicle at Loretta's Family Campground. It is a
come-as-you-are, do-as-you-please atmosphere with entertainment for the
whole family, and much, much more!
As the sun slants across the surface of Kentucky Lake, you might just
call your boss and tell him you’re taking an extra day off. The
reason? You’ve been entranced by the Magic Valley.
Reprinted from "The Tennessee
Magazine" Trish Milburn Nov. 2000
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